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Kinetic Garment Construction 欧洲服装结构设计

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PhD thesis by Rickard Lindqvist in Chinese
Soft cover book, 316 pages. Printed in China.

Published in Chinese 2018, first published 2015.

If you are interested in the process and background of the Atacac garments this document is central for the understanding of why we do what we do and how we do it.

Currently it is only available as a printed book in Chinese. However, you can find an English revised digital version of parts of the thesis is here and the original text is available to download as a pdf from www.academia.edu

Abstract
Fashion designers are presented with a range of methods and concepts for pattern cutting are presented, the main body of these methods, both traditional and contemporary, is predominantly based on a theoretical approximation of the body that is derived from horizontal and vertical measurements of the body in an upright position: the tailoring matrix. As a consequence, there is a lack of interactive and dynamic qualities in methods connected to this paradigm of garment construction, from both expressional and functional perspectives.

The research conducted here is basic research, aiming to identify fundamental principles for garment construction. The work proposes and explores an alternative paradigm for pattern cutting that includes a new theoretical approximation of the body. Based on some key principles found in the works of Geneviève Sevin-Doering and in pre-tailoring methods for constructing garments, the proposed theory for – and method of – garment construction was developed through concrete experiments by cutting and draping fabrics on live models.